Wet cleaning synthetic fibres: a preliminary investigation into the effects of conservation detergents on soiled synthetic test fabrics

Abstract

Although wet cleaning is common practice within textile conservation, limited research has
been undertaken on its use on twentieth-century synthetic fabrics, which are gradually
entering museum collections and in turn conservation studios. This dissertation research
focuses on the effects of wet cleaning synthetic fibres, looking in detail at soil removal and
detergent choice. Standardised wet cleaning tests were conducted on artificially soiled and
aged test specimens, to include four different fibres: cellulose acetate, viscose rayon, nylon
and polyester. An anionic and a non-ionic detergent were used in the wet cleaning tests to
determine the effectiveness of the wash solution and evaluate the effects of conservation
wet cleaning on the fibre’s tensile strength. Both colour readings and tensile strength testing
were used to assess the differences before and after cleaning. The results confirmed that
the wet cleaning process had little effect on the tensile strength for nylon or polyester but a
noticeable change in elongation was evident for both cellulose acetate and viscose rayon
after all wet cleaning tests. The soil removal specimens produced varied results between
soiling and fibres. While certain stains were removed by the detergent baths on some fibres
they were not removed on others. It was found that acetate and polyester were the most
improved after wet cleaning and anionic detergent was the most effective at soil removal
overall. These results confirmed that detergent selection should be based not only on the
fibre type but soiling and stains should also be considered. This research concludes with
recommendations and guidelines for conservators looking to wet clean synthetic fibres.