ʻLike with likeʼ: A comparison of natural and synthetic stitching threads used in textile conservation

Abstract

This research aimed to determine optimum thread types used in textile conservation by
quantitatively evaluating tensile strength and damage inhered to conserved samples. A
literature review and questionnaire sent to textile conservators were used to establish the
most commonly used threads for laid-thread couching treatments and the rationale behind
thread choice. Most common threads found were two-ply hair silk and Tetex (formerly
Stabiltex) as well as fine polyester, silk, and cotton varieties.
Three natural fibre plain-weave artefact samples conserved with five different thread
types (lace cotton, hair silk, organsin, Skala and Tetex) using laid-thread couching were
tensile strength tested or subjected to a fixed-load experiment for two weeks. Results were
evaluated with high-magnification images and scanning electron microscope (SEM). The
fixed-load experiment determined that longer periods of time created more damage, even
with lighter loads. Lace cotton and hair silk gave the best results for textile conservation use
on natural fibre artefacts, whereas the polyester threads gave the highest damage results.
Many conclusions were drawn from this research, however, further research is required to
quantify some observations, such as stitching effects, and to broaden the researchʼs scope
within textile conservation.