A comparison of methods of supporting areas of loss in knitted textiles

Abstract

This dissertation compared methods of stitched support for areas of loss in historical
knitted objects. A literature review and interviews established methods currently in
use and rationales behind treatment choices. Couching over a patched support and
Swiss darning were identified as two methods currently used by textile conservators.
The research revealed assumptions that couching was not appropriate for knitted
fabrics due to the inelasticity of the support, and that using a stretchy support fabric
could mitigate this. Experiments with knitted samples were conducted to test these
assumptions.
Four support methods were tested: couching over a woven fabric on the grain,
on the bias, over jersey and Swiss darning. The supported samples were subjected
to fixed-load weighting to replicate the strain of a) hanging display and b) mannequin
display. The results showed strain caused permanent further damage in the
unsupported samples, and some distortion and tension in the couched samples.
Analysis of samples weighted against the wale (hanging display), using Digital Image
Correlation, appeared to confirm that couched samples exhibited more concentrated
areas of strain than those supported with Swiss darning. The research supported the
hypothesis that Swiss darning is a more sympathetic method of support, although
patched support is more appropriate in circumstances.